Twelve kitchen knife sets, $20 to $250, compared knife for knife. Sharpness was
measured on a certified tester that records the downward force needed to push a
blade through a single-use test clip, so a lower number is a sharper edge. For
scale: a double-edged razor blade reads 50 to 75, a utility blade 150 to 200, a
new high-end cutlery edge 250 to 350, an edge due for sharpening 400 and up, and
a butter knife around 2,000. Every set had its paring, chef's, and Santoku knife
measured straight out of the box.
Edge retention was then tested twice. First the factory edges made 100 weighted
passes across cured Osage orange, a hardwood of roughly 2,500 on the Janka
scale. Then every knife was hand sharpened on stones from 100 through 1,000 grit
and stropped, bringing the whole field within five points of one another at 110
to 115, and each made 100 more weighted passes across a cutting board. Blade
tips were dropped through a guide pipe from 50 inches onto metal, and the blades
were sprayed with hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, and salt.
Price predicted almost nothing. The $96 Wizeka had the sharpest factory edge on
both the paring and chef's knives and finished best overall in the group,
while the $250 Yatoshi arrived duller than a $40 set. What separated the field
instead was blade steel, and it separated them consistently. The same three sets
gave up the least sharpness in both retention tests — the Global Osaka, Wizeka,
and Henckels — and the same three gave up the most: the Astercook, the
Hunter.Dual, and the McCook, at $40, $40, and $56.